One year has passed since I came to Japan this time, and I’ve spent the whole year in Kyoto. I believe this gives me the right to summarize my impressions of the city, as I don’t see it merely as a tourist or a temporary visitor. It’s been a good year that’s finally brought some healthy routine and stability into my life, and without a doubt, Kyoto has contributed to that. Let’s dive into some of the most ambiguous and controversial aspects of this city.
Tourists are always around, but, actually, not everywhere. Even in popular areas like Arashiyama, it usually takes just 5–7 minutes to walk away from the main attractions to find streets where there’s literally no one. Kyoto is full of hidden gems, and it’s pleasant to wander here and there. Areas to avoid at all costs: the Arashiyama bamboo forest, Ninenzaka, the surroundings of Kiyomizu Temple, and the department stores around Kyoto Station. They’re just not worth it when you have places like Ninnaji or Toji.
The city is surrounded by mountains, which define its limits, so the city feels tightly clustered. There aren’t many open areas where I can get that sense of space, and I miss that a lot. This is why I prefer northern Kyoto—it’s easier to breathe there, and there are fewer people. There aren’t many parks in the city, and this was one of my biggest disappointments when I first arrived. I’d love to live somewhere greener.
At the same time, the high density gives you the freedom to get around by bike or on foot. Pretty much everything you need is within walking distance: a gym, supermarket, mall, and always a convenience store or drugstore nearby. Nature is still accessible—I can spend hours along the Kamogawa River promenade or in Takaragaike Park, and it’s so cheap and easy to get to Lake Biwa or to the beautiful neighboring town of Uji. There are plenty of hills to hike and take in the views.
The public transportation here is pretty similar to what I had in Novosibirsk, though the buses are more comfortable. The subway isn’t significantly better, but there are definitely fewer homeless people, weirdos, or aggressive drunks on local trains compared to Russia.
Kyoto has the most expensive subway in Japan; a single-station ride costs 220 yen. It takes time to get used to understanding how the trains work here since there are several private companies operating in different parts of the city. I enjoy walking and biking, but it’s hard to do in the summer because…
Summer is the worst. I can’t just leave my apartment when it’s +35°C with 80% humidity. It’s impossible to endure without AC, which runs non-stop all summer.
As for winter, it feels like late October in Siberia, but since Japan hasn’t quite unlocked the technology of heat insulation, it’s freezing indoors. Inside temperatures can drop to +15°C or even lower, and without an oil heater, you risk turning into an icicle.
The best weather of the year is from late May to early June. October is also quite nice, reminding me of late August or early September in Novosibirsk.
This post may read like a rant, but honestly, I’m pretty satisfied with living in Kyoto. It’s not too big, it has all the amenities, and it’s definitely quieter than Novosibirsk or Ulaanbaatar. I’d be glad to spend a couple more years here, and even when I eventually leave, I know there’ll be things I’ll miss about this city.